Update (2024): Finally, I'm back! Since my last time here, I've visited 5 other Brazilian cities (Sao Paulo, Brasilia, Belo Horizonte, Floripa, and Campinas) even though I knew I loved Rio. My desire for exploration is stronger. Similar to 2019, the quality of life here, with the giant beach next to a modern city, is unbeatable. Another reason I like beach cities: turns the city into a morning city, people wake up early and go to the beach. I don't like when I go outside at 8am, it's a ghost town. It's one of the most liberal societies I've experienced, more so than Madrid. The dating scene got hard since I remember in 2019! Plenty of options, but hard to get a date. There are negatives. See below.
Final thoughts (2019): the seamless integration of 4 beaches and a big city with nature (biggest urban forest in the world!) is flawless. Copacabana Beach is good, but the area surrounding it is trashy. Flamenco is my favorite beach because it's more local. Learning Portuguese is a must (very limited English or Spanish). The cost of living is moderate (see pricing table below). A big downside is the cafe scene; few true cafes. If you like big butts, this will be your paradise. Low air pollution. Walkable, great transit system, ok on the cleanliness of streets, though lots of homeless/poor.
Air Quality: 90 out of 100 (excellent)
Water Quality: 77ppm (ok)
Dew Point: 20C / 68F (doable; learn why dew point is a better measure than humidity)
Best Coffee Shop: 22 Special Coffee Leblon
Join me on a helicopter ride over Christ the Redeemer!
Most Instagrammable: Portuguese Reading Room
Carnaval runs two weekends plus the week in between. There will be pre-parties the weekend prior. The main events and parties are the first weekend plus Monday and Tuesday then the following weekend. Sandodromo is where the official competition takes place between dance schools. The cheapest ticket is about $125 and the event goes from 10pm to 4am, three nights in a row. In the city of Rio, there will be dozens of 'blocos' in different neighborhoods starting from 7am to about 10pm. Each block lasts 3-4 hours. Dress code is flamboyant - tutus, tiaras, fishnet, sparkles - but not required. Many are free and some are paid. The paid ones are from $4 to $100+ and always in the evening. Use this website to filter by date and neighborhood. Personally, I really liked the ones in Flamengo (I have been to Centro and Leme and Copacabana).
The most famous blocos are:
Cordão da Bola Preta (the oldest; 1 million attendees; centro)
Bloco da Favorita (attracts celebrities and influencers; São Conrado)
Banda de Ipanema (LGBT; Ipanema)
Simpatia é Quase Amor (Ipanema)
Monobloco (professional percussion group; Centro) - March 8th
Suvaco do Cristo (creative costumes; Jardim Botânico)
Carmelitas (Santa Teresa) - March 4th
Spanta Neném (Lagoa)
Clube do Samba was really big in Copacabana on Tuesday 10am.
Portuguese Language Phrases and Keywords
Bom dia/boa tarde/boa noche - good morning/afternoon/evening (d is pronounced 'j')
Obrigado - thank you (girls use an 'a' on the end)
Por favor - please
Cuanto? - How much?
Tchau - Bye
Eu estou aprendendo português - I am learning Portuguese
Banheiro - bathroom
Você fala inglês? - Do you speak English?
Gostoso - tasty
Como você diz? - How do you say?
Neighborhoods
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